give me a day or two to go through all my pictures and rewrite texts. 5 days to go 
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| Last days in Lima |
1 days to go 
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| Chachapoyas |
it is grate city and the road from tarapoto to chachapoyas fantastic. old bus, steep slopes and narrow road, astonishing landscapes. yep I m lovin it
i think we will spend here more days a lot things to see, fuck chiclayo
I´m in Tarapoto now. yesterday was crazy, you will not believe it.
I will write something about my trip to jungle in few days. tomorrow me and my 55 years old friend from sweden - Jon - are going to Kualap and then to chiclayo.
take a look on few pictures from my journey from Pucallpa to Iquitos. good luck and good night
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| Tarapoto |
This was totally crazy day. First we went to the police station in Yurimaguas to get paper confirming that Jan’s camera was really stolen. For one hour we were explaining how it had happened and who are we (even after we showed our passports). Finally he printed out some paper and told us to wait. It took them another hour to explain us we needed to pay for that print out. But as they couldn’t receive that money from us directly Jan had spent hour in a bank. Then we were waiting another hour while other officer was retyping the printout on his typewriter. Crazy?
It is better not to loose anything here, cos then you will loose at least half a day to deal with police!
Now we needed get to Tarapoto. We found out that the road between is under construction and we had to wait until 7 o’clock, as the road is closed everyday from 6 AM. Buses are going only on Sundays, but what you have other mean of transport for? We could choose from taxis, pick-ups or small buses. As pick-ups and micro buses are taking far to many people (not to mention chickens, cows and everything else that they were designed for. We bargained a bit and negotiated 20S/. per person in hardly going, old taxi
tbc….
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| Maranon river |
We were in hurry. A cargo-boat to Yurimagaus would leave in few hours, on the same day we came back from the jungle. ‘Eduardos’ are the only on-water connection with Yurimaguas that makes them extremely expensive. For 3 days, for a cabin they wanted 200S/. , for hammock - 70S/. on the lower deck and 140S/. on upper one. The good thing is that they are renting a hammocks for 10S/. and drinking water is included.
We had chosen hammocks upstairs as there was no so many people and food is better. Eventually we paid 120S/. that was fine for me 
Well for Jan it wasn’t pleasant night. A boy who was selling something around had stolen his camera. This is Peru. You need to take care of your stuff every time the boat is in a harbour, as so many people are coming and leaving. Later is safe and sleeping on a hammock is so grate experience. Jan will have his money back from insurance company but I think both of us will miss the photos 
Our lodge was as simple as three huts from wood and straw. A power generator had just broken down so we didn’t have water to wash ourself. I could see that camp is quite old, as nets in windows were full of holes but it was OK. They were rebuilding it but I think it will be ready for a summer season.
The good news was that the kitchen was operating and I had delicious fishes with bananas and lemonade we had collected on the way form the river. Next I put on my rubber boots and followed Jose - my guide. We entered the jungle :). He showed me flowers, trees and animals I have never seen before. Really nice experience was to touch a rubber form a Rubber tree, watch ants highways, tarantulas or for example a little poisonous frog I didn’t spot any sloth or a jaguar that had been seen recently nearby.
It seemed Jose knows pretty a lot about plants around showing me those to cure or to kill. He used to say that for him the jungle is a big drug store, but even he doesn’t know secrets of local shamans.
I have found that using a repellent is useless. Mosquitoes and other flying creatures weren’t afraid at all, I had dots everywhere. Pity me One the one hand they had assured me there is no malaria in that area, and they are checking it from time to time. On the other hand the problem is that the malaria is the best you can get there Jose briefly described me other diseases you can have leaving in deep jungle.
Later that day I met Jan from Sweden. Jag heter Pawel Jan is 55 years old now and crossed Amazon river from Manaos to Iquitos. Jan refused to use rubber shoes as his guide wasn’t using them and he is not afraid. He was wearing his flip-flops instead.
On my second day I had to catch some piranhas if I wished to eat anything. After 2h I had nothing I don’t know what was wrong with my stick and hock, because hehe lucky bastard in 30 minutes cough 4! Fortunately piranhas are as clever as tasty By the night we went to look for some caymans. In this areas are no chances to find any big, mature ones and maybe even better. I was a bit sceptic about finding at least small one so I had left my camera in the camp. What was my surprise when Jan’s guide cough one. We had no other option so I carried a piece for my new shoes back to take a few picture.
I had strange feeling that our guides have all those animals, that they showed us before, hidden somewhere around the camp. To be sure we freed our cayman back to the river.
On the last day we were promised to visit the shaman’s house. But somehow plans changed and we went to see how is sugar, sugar juice or ram from cane produced. It took as about hour to squeeze juice from cane in quite ancient machine. Fortunately ram was waiting for us Juice is very sweet, like a half kilo of sugar mixed with water, blee…
Well and that’s it. It was nice few days, I cant remember if I have been ever that dirty.
As Jan had no exact plans what to do next, he decided to follow me. We were heading west!
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| Jungle boy |
Another reason for taking this agency was a schedule of the trip. On the contrary to all others agencies around the city we had started very early in the morning with breakfast:). Of course you need to be a tough guy like me to wake up at 6 o’clock. And you know I don’t like to waste my time, which I am paying for!
After 2 months in Peru I have noticed that anyone who transports people can predict such a simple thing like refuelling before his passengers appear. As if they all were afraid, that no one will come.
Firstly we were about to see grey and pink dolphins. I was travelling with a couple from Belgium that had paid only to see those animals before they took off to Lima. On my way from Pucallpa I had spotted so many dolphins so I though I would be able to see them now from close distance. Unfortunately our small boat was fast enough to make it impossible to see any. Later we stopped in some small village to have a break and eat something. But we wanted to see anything, so we were standing there on some kind of pier near our speedboat and scanning the horizon. As you can imagine dolphins were to far away to see them well, just shapes of their tails.
While we were trying to spot anything that looked like a dolphin another boat came. It was full of people and all they had with them. My guide told me, that most of those people were already travelling for 10h and as the boat was going from one village to other they would arrive to Iquitos in 6-8 hours (it was only 100km to Iquitos). Nice!
After an hour of watching the river I left the pair from Belgium, I don’t think they saw anything more. 30 minutes more in that speedboat and I was in the middle of nowhere. We had about 1h of walking. My adventure in jungle had just begun.
Finally we came to Iquitos in early afternoon. Iquitos is a big city in the hart of Amazonian jungle. It had grown with a increasing need for rubber during colonial times. Now it is a important port on the Amazon river and tourist centre for those who wants explore beauty of Selwa. Iquitos is almost cut off from the rest of the worl. There are no road connection. The only possibilities are a plane (about 80$) or a small boat or big cargo boat I had taken.
In the port a taxi driver caught me and offered a very cheap hostel and a tour to jungle. The price was 50$ for 5 days. So I decided to go with him to his agency. I don´t know why I could get tricked so easily. As we got there, a nice, old woman explained that 50$ is an average price for each day. A plan of the trip seemed to be reasonable, but I wanted to have an comparison.
I found out that agencies offer two kinds of lodges (a central point in jungle where you sleep and from which you can start your tours). One of them are just a fun centre, comfortable with hot water, swimming pools and cold beer. Others are closer to nature, quiet but it is possible that there is no electricity or water to wash at all. Choosing a lodge it is very important to check where it is located. If it is far away from national park you can forget to see real jungle and people living there.
As I have heard a good and cheap idea is to take a cargo boat from Iquitos to Laguna (on the way to Yurimaguas). In Laguna you can hire a guide for 80 S/. per day that is like half of the price. And Laguna is a small village close to the biggest national park in this area.
I wanted pure nature without theatre prepared just to make stupid tourist happy. I decided to go for 3 days with Carrusel Tapira for 40$ per day. Their lodge was 120km to the south from Iquitos, more or less close to the National park.
Sounds good - but I was a bit afraid and suspicious at the beginning. Now I know it was a right decision!
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| Ucayali river |
A distance from Pucallpa to Iquitos is close to 1500km following the river and it takes about 4-5 days in cargo boat. According to my map we were sailing with winding Ucayali river that will later change to Amazon river in Iquitos. But local people doesn´t distinguish rivers here and calls it just the Amazon river as it begins in Peru near Arequipa.
On one hand we were going downstream that makes my boat quite fast, but on other hand as water level is low now, boat needed to choose route very carefully and that was slowing us down. I really didn´t mind. I took my time watching birds, dolphins (swimming up and down again) and plenty villages with wooden and straw huts. From time to time we were stopping in one of this villages to take or to unload something or someone.
My cabin (caramota - I have paid 150 S/. with bath, 3 meals per day, without water ) is rather small and stuffy so it is impossible to stay there all day. Deck is better as moving boat make a little breeze. Unfortunately there was no place to hang my hammock somewhere so I went watch landscapes.
-eres de polonia?
-si, porque?
-solo una pregunta…
The person was working on the boat and it turned out that I was in restricted area. I exchanged a word with him, well I was the only tourist on this ship He has told me that there is 8 Henrys and each one is repeating the distance from and to Iquitos twice a month.
Just before dusk we arrived to bigger port and few people left, making space for my hammock. So I could watch beautiful sunset.
Even though, now we are sailing as well by nights, landscapes stays pretty the same:). The weirdest thing I have ever seen was unloading ice cubes, when we stoped in one of those villages, as local fisherman use ice to keep their fishes fresh. But after that I have noticed it wasn´t nothing unusual and that we had more ice on board.
Well people here don´t mind throwing trashes directly to the river. The other thing was that they were a bit afraid of me at the beginning. But after one day they saw me talking to some people around suddenly I became the biggest attraction on my level. Sometimes it was so nice as people was giving me fruits or food (I have never seen before) to try.
Food that was served to cabins was a bit different, than food from hammocks but I had expected something more after paying 50 S/. extra. The good thing about it was I didn´t need to have any plates or cutlery while those from hammock had to have everything with them and then wait in long queue to get something
Every place for hammock was used so I put mine and I didn´t think about taking it off, maybe I was just to lazy.
Ok, I am in Pucallpa. With one guy from Canada, we were the only tourist in the bus. So I assume that all gringos are taking direct fly to Iquitos. No wonder, it took 20h to get to Pucalpa, but it was worth it. Of course if you have time.
For only 70 S/. I had comfortable bus, with two real meals included. But the best thing on the way were landscapes.
Pucallpa is small, port town that lives from river transport. I found a cargo boat, that is taking passengers as well. I took a cabin for 150 S/. with shower and toilet, it is small but enough. I hope that food is also included
Other option for tourist to spend that 5 days on the boat, is buying a place for their hammock for 70 to 90 S/. but a hammock is another 25-50S/. so the price do not vary that much from cabin, and it is not that safe.
Anyway I bought cheap hammock for 23 S/. just for make this trip more comfortable, after all I hope to use it again on my way back from Iquitos to Tarapoto. I just wonder how many spiders I will eat during nights
“Henry”, that is said to be the best boat, was very busy. Workers were almost running loading and unloading cargo from the ship.
For next 4-5 days I will be on my boat without internet, mobile connection. Just me, ship and the river. I am on the dark side of the moon
take care
update 22-08-2007
I am still in Pucallpa, we supposed to leave yesterday at 6 o’clock, but as I am still in Peru, we will probably start journey today about 2. They have few trucks to unpack
Ok, tomorrow I’m heading south to Pucallpa where I would like to find a cargo boat, that will take me to Iquitos deep in the Amazonian jungle. I will be there about 15 days including 10days on the boat. So probably I will not be on-line for 5 days.
This is what google thinks about my blog I was pretty surprised to see my site so high.
If you know anyone that works for National Geographic, who will buy my pictures, just let me know:D.
We went back from sunny Huaraz to cold and cloudy Lima,
I got my laptop back and I am taking advantage of time difference by listening radio’s jazz night broadcast during a day I am waiting for tomorrow NAJLEPSZY GROOVE W MIEŚCIE, najs
Probably this Sunday I will take bus to Pucallpa (70 S/. ~ 20h) and then boat to Iquitos.
Tuwim Julian, A ja tak sobie wieczorem
A ja tak sobie wieczorem po ulicy chodzę,
Z podniesionym kołnierzem przy wytartym palcie
Ja wiem, ze nie masz celu mej codziennej drodze
Chyba, podeszwy zdzierać na szorstkim asfalcie.
Jak sobie naprzód idę młody i wspaniały
Jak wsadze do kieszeni twarde, suche pięście
To jakbym brzemię dźwigał, przewalam się cały:
We mnie się przewala me pijane szczęście
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| Churup |
Im going to collect my laptop, then I need to talk with few people about Pucalpa and then I will finish editing this blog.
Enjoy photos
I am fine, now I am in Huaraz that is about 400km to the North from Lima. And epicentre was is small village - Chincha Alta that is south to Lima. I know there was almost 400 casualties and more than 1500 wounded.The worst thing is that I have those informations from my mum from Poland.
Here in Huraz Peruvian CNN was showing streets in Lima for an hour after earthquake. We didn’t know if there will be another one, where was epicentre, we should stay and homes or anything.
That was really, really interesting experience, the house we were into was moving like a small boat on the water or a branch on the wind. After 5 sec we just went out but we were more excited than scared.
This is Peru. Apart from one woman on the street, who was terrified because she survived cataclysm in ´70, people seems to don´t give a damn about that there was quite strong earthquake around.
I´m going to Lima today so tomorrow or on Saturday I should upload some picture from here.
I am all right thanks for all emails and text messages.
Chancas is a place with natural saunas-like caves. To get there you can take public bus to mancara and then a taxi. We paid like 3S/. each plus 5 S/. for a cave.
There are 6 cava-s and each comes with different temperature. I took the one with 54°C and it was really relaxing. The only thing was we had to wait like 2 hours before getting in. There is always long cue, although ticket allow you to take only 15 minute session, people always staying there longer. And so did I. After 30 minutes of “sauna” I was like new born.
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| Chavin |
We bought a trip in Pablo Tour. It cost 30 S/. and it is a good price.
On the place we had to pay entrance fee - 10 S/. for adults and 5/. for students. I passed with my ISEC card. It was nice to see the pyramid but as always our guide was terrible. I am getting use to it:).
For me the best part of the trip was watching landscapes on the way to and back from Chavin, hym decide yourself.
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| Laguna Llangaunuco and Yungay |
I don’t know what is better, take a trip in agency and pay 25 S/. or go on your own - pay 5 S/. less and enjoy nature early in the morning? Heh we surprised all vendors because we were before them. They must have been thinking we mistook hours
Well for me this place, that was so peaceful without tourists, with big white peak above us , was like a dreamland. Just after visiting first lake we took a road to second one just an hour far.
We paid 8 S/. each from Yungay to get there, > Luckily we caught a truck on our way down. Shiny, yellow truck
****
About Yungay, it was totally destroyed by avalanche in 31 May 1970. and about 18 000 people were dead.
“Jednym z bardziej ponurych miejsc w Peru jest przysypane błotną lawiną miasto Yungay. Podczas trzęsienia ziemi 31 maja 1970 roku język lodowca spadł do jeziora Llanganuco położonego nad miastem. Wody jeziora wystąpiły z brzegów i lawina złożona z lodu, błota i kamieni runęła w dół doliny. Pędziła z prędkością ponad 300 kilometrów na godzinę, zmiatając wszystko na swej drodze. W ciągu kilku minut zginęło kilkanaście tysięcy ludzi, zaś miasteczko Yungay zniknęło z powierzchni ziemi. Dziś na tym miejscu znajduje się Park Pamięci z pomnikiem Chrystusa, mającym upamiętniać to tragiczne zdarzenie.” form gazeta.pl
or http://wiadomosci.polska.pl/kalendarz/kalendarium/article.htm?id=273448
I met David in Chivay where we had the school and he was interpreter for some American’s catholic organisation. Primary our idea was to go to Hancayo but his parents convinced us to go to Huaraz. I felt a bit like Gandalf forcing Bilbo Bagins to take part in his first adventure outside his warm and well-known city
Huaraz lie in a valley between two mountain chains - Coldyliera Blanca that is always covered with snow and Coldyliera Negra that is never. It is 300km far from Lima to the North. Coldyriera Blanca offers many easy hiking paths, as well as more challenging way of outdoor activities. The most beautiful thing is that wherever you look you will see huge, white peaks.
We paid 40S/. for a night, cama bus from Lima. It was really exciting watching our bus climbing the narrow road. At 6 o’clock in the morning when the city was bringing back to life, Coldyliera Blanca was even better then I though.
Because of the altitude (3600 m) we were a bit tired. Even after four weeks in Chivay, that was the same high, I felt just like shit Fortunately we found hot springs just few kilometres from Huaraz in Monterey. On the place we had two possibilities. First was to use ordinary swimming pool with hot water. And second was to take private “poza” for 3,5 S/. Poza is just a big bath but is comfortable to have it just for yourself.
We spent that evening with David’s family who are guides and are organising high mountain expeditions. After a slide show I asked them how much it costs. So counting 4 people and one peak, they estimated all expenses on 4000 $ including everything. 1000$ is not too bad for such a adventure. Don’t forget you need to spend at least one week hiking to acclimatize.
If you want to try, here you have some contacts
Cosme Ramos Carranza
Guia de alta montania
cosme_alpinist@hotmail.com
tel. in Huaraz 421947
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| Lima |
brrr it is cold here heh.
After month and a half I’m back to Lima. Because I skipped Pisco I had to find some hostel here. Loki hostel in Milaflores offers dormitories for 30 S/. that is a lot, but for one night I can afford it. At least it has internet for free
Thursday. I am staying at David’s place for few days before going to Huancayo. Stella (his sister) is taking care of me. Lima is not that bad place to live, especially when you are watching two people dancing so beautifully in some club in Miraflores.
Friday. We are going to meet my friends from Arequipa and then visiting Lima’s catacomb. One more party in Barranco district with people from Stella’s university. I’m meeting Ewa who is studying here as well, she just arrived from Warsaw. hym polish seem to be everywhere.
Be careful with pick pocketers.
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| Paracas Park |
Trip costs 35S/. There is no sun in the morning and sky is just one big cloud. Around noon weather is usually better but in agency they have told me they can’t postpone the trip because waves might be bigger.
So we started about 9. We took open speedboat that after half an hour made me sick of cold, wind, speed and waves. The guide that suppose to speak English, decides himself that everyone understands Spanish so I was more guessing what he has to say about the park.
Apart from countless birds flying above our head, I have seen only few penguins, seals and dolphins. It is far better during summer.
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| Huacachina Ica |
Ica is 10h far from Arequipa to the North and 4h from Lima to the South. In my opinion the best thing you can to do in the city is to take a cab from there as fast as possible. Huacachina is just few kilometres from Ica and taxi shouldn’t cost more than 5 S/.
It is a bit expensive comparing to other places in Peru so primary I wanted to stay there only for a one night. In Casa Arena (056) - 215 439 for a single, cold room with bathroom (don’t count on warm water) I paid 25 S/. but dormitory is only 15 S/. Although breakfast is not included this hostel seems to be a really good option.
Not only I had nice swimming pool to disposition but also they are giving you weed for free if you ask them. Of course I didn’t. They are organising parties (something like 20 S/. with beverages and food included) that is good way to make new friends or just ask others where to go. So this one night convinced me to stay one more night.
Huacachina’s main attraction are huge sand dunes and sun that stays there whole year. You need to take into account that during dry season coast is covered totally by clouds, so there is no sun at all is humid and colder than usually.
Apart from sunbathing and smoking a green thing the main attraction around are buggy rides and sandbarding. Rides are pretty cool (better in smaller car - about 8 people). For two hours I was speeding through desert. It was like roller coaster :).
Sand boards - as long as you don’t rent a proper snowboard (10S/. per hour) - is not what I expected. For 10 S/. they offer a piece of wood with bindings made of hook-loop fastener that hardly holding you and a board is going whenever it wants :). The other thing is that sand is not a snow so the board is not that fast and after going down you need to climb back, as there are no lifts around.
Anyway it was nice three days in Huacachina
Bolivia is nice and beautiful country that is hard to forget. It is cheaper and more peaceful then Peru so there is not good explanation for not going there. Maybe only crossing border can drive you crazy.
It is no use buying any expensive ticket to and from Bolivia to make your journey more comfortable. There is always a small bus going between La paz - Copacabana (3h), you always wait for another bus in Copacabana one hour, then you need to take a bus to Puno (2-3h) where you will wait at least hour. And then you can go to Cusco or Arequipa (both 5-6h).
If some agency is offering something else they are just lying.
Anyway landscapes around Copacabana and La paz or Potosi are worth spending 13 or 22 hours in a bus
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| Between La Paz and Copacabana |
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| Tiahuanaco and La Paz |
The easiest way to get there is buying a trip in one of the local agencies in La paz, I´ve found one day trip for 140B. with transport ticket guide and small dinner included.
All in all I decided to take a local bus from “Mercado de flores” in front of main graveyard. It cost 10B. and it takes 1:30h to get there. Landscapes around La paz are impressive, especially the huge mountains, covered with snow.
I have found Tiahuanco a big disappointment. Entrance fee is 80B. Although the area is vast, there is little to see. Taking a tour is useless because guides talk hardly English and they are in hurry.
I took 3 or 4h to see everything. And another hour I waited for a bus. It is interesting nothing more
“…Little is actually known about the people who constructed the great Tiahuanco ceremonial center…”
“its gold was looted by Spanish, farmers destroyed pices of it as they turned the surroundings area into pasture and cropland, larger stonework went into Spanish construction projects…”
“The ruins themselves have been so badly looted, however that much of the information they could have revealed is now lost forever”
I think it is better to go down along the death road from La paz to Corolco than spending all day in Tiahuanco.
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| Potosi |
Potosi is a old city located around the silver mountain, that for more than 300 years was the world´s largest silver deposit. During the days of prosperity it was the richest city in South America and its population outnumbered the biggest cities in Europe.
I didn´t have a lot of information about Potosi , I just had copied few pages from LonelyPlanet to have anything with me. Luckily I had met Carmen who seemed to know more about the place. She bought tickets at TRANS COPACABANA SYNDICATE, 80B. each, for a “cama”(bed) bus from LaPaz to Potosi. They are really comfortable and it is worth to go with them during nights.
After 10h in the bus we arrived at 6 o´clock in the morning. Carmen insisted on Compania de Jesus hotel that costs 60B. for a single room with a bathroom and breakfast. It is a lot, comparing to the price of the bus, what´s more the breakfast was awful and room was cold as hell, but for a one night I could afford it.
That day I found a hostel for backpackers that costs only 25B with internet and looked really nice. (calle CHUQUISACA #460 Potosi, +591(2) 623 0523).
On Mondays every museum is closed so after booking a trip to mine I took a small bus to T….. that is 15km far from Potosi. Main attraction of the village is Ocho de Inka - hot spring well know at Inka´s time. There are swimming pools with hot water as well. So it seemed to be good idea to go there.
It turn out that the Eye of Inka is very small, hard to find and not really interesting pound. While swimming pool was dirty so I was quite disappointed.
The good side of the trip was that I met few people from UK and I could exchange some informations. They had already called a taxi from the city (for 50B) so I went back with them.
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| Potosi silver mine |
I woke up at 7 o´clock and started to prepare for my tour to silver mine. At the office I met two Dutch people who was going with me. Before going inside the mine we had to change our clothes.
Equipped with rubber welling tons, pants and jackets we went to mine market where we were obliged to buy some souvenirs for miners. I had a feeling they are doing good deal on us selling bag of coca leafs for 30B. (Coca is a good pain killer, allow them work harder in very bad condition.) They are mixing coca leafs with fruits to prepare stone-like cookies with different flavour. We could buy dynamite as well but only as a gift for miners.
People from Potosi don´t work for any company, that invest in them. That is why they need buy everything by themselves. All miners are associated into so called Cooperative, with hierarchical structure.
Our guide used to work there but only for two years as a assistant. And because of that we were able to see his friends drilling holes for dynamite. Normally tourists aren´t allowed to do so.
Dust is everywhere and it is hard to breath. They will blow this site soon so we need to leave this place. After some time we heard 3 explosions that sounds like a hammer hit.
We are using the same tunnels that miners do. Tunnels aren´t higher than 1,5m so it is hard to follow our guide who perfectly fits into. After 3h inside the mine I am glad to be back
Now there is 15000 people working, around Potosi it is almost the only place they can find a job without education. You can´t find any advanced machines there. For them every machine means reductions, so they use only pneumatic drills and their muscles.
friday-saturday : after 22h in a 5 different buses finally I am here. I have met Spanish girl from Majorca. tomorrow we are going to Potosi. can be nice. I am sleeping in very budget hostel for 25boliwiano (that is something like 3,5$ -1$ is 7,7 boliviano).
tonight here is festival of universities so whole city is full of people dancing, dressing colourful costumes and masks and of course drinking whole day - it is pretty crazy tonight. I didn’t take my camera with me, just in case.
Sunday : today there is a big market near Plaza de San Francisco. Prices are lower then in Peru and I bought nice surprises La paz is a combination of Peruvian or Bolivian typical way of building and colonial style. it is really nice, colourful place. It is surrounded by El Alto - slums area built on steep slopes around.
My hostel turned out to be a brothel fortunately im leaving to Potosi.
here are some addresses that can be useful
- Av.America y union #446 - “happy stay” for 40B for 1person / 50B for 2 with breakfast (tel 2458914)
- calle jimenez #812 hospedaje G - 25B per person (tel 245141
(other hostel really nice) - sagarnaga #339 - 55B per person (with internet) (tel.2311970)
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| Pisaq and machu pichu |
We spent two nights in Pisaq that is 1km lower than Cusco. We took a pretty fast bike ride to Pisaq, that is a gate to Inka´s Sacred Valley.
On the way there is a workshop where they weaving everything you can imagine. Prices are out of this world. Simple hat costs like 30$ and nice carpet starts from 500$.
We didn’t want to spend so much so we went to Pisaq where is big market as well. I have found beautiful carpet for 120soles (that is about 110PLN) but I wanted it for 100/S. so now I don´t have nothing anyway I will be in so many places so I will find something else
Next day we took a taxi from Pisaq to Huayitambo (or something like that) - 70km costed us 60/S. In Huayitambo is huge fortification from Inca times. Thanks to our tourist agent we didn’t have time to see it, so we took a train to Aquas Calientes (about 1:40h) that is a gate to Machu pichu.
Aqua Calientes is a ghost city only for tourists, full of restaurants and hotels. it is good idea to stay there like one night and then take a bus to Machu pichu as early as possible and access so called ´young mountain´ as they allow only 200-300 people to go there.
Now few facts
- there is 3500 tourist per day
- it is impossible to take a photo without a tourist in background
- it cost a fortune to get there and now prices will go higher
- it is good idea to take Inka trail (about 5 days)
- I have paid 130$ for this fucking trip and I have spend there 4hours
enjoy photos
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| Cusco |
great, we came to cuzco this morning at 5 o´clock after 10h in a bus (30 S/. nice). It is freezing cold outside (about 0-5 deg) and buses dont have heating
I found Cusco as the best city in Peru so far, although it is expensive, is such amazing place full of beautiful markets and shops with all you would like to buy. At each corner there is art gallery, small streets are climbing up the hills, ech..
i will spend few days here with my USA group, and then I am going to La paz and then Potosi.
wait for my reports, heh
//potwor is in China right now he says it is hard to sell ewa away :* take care potworze
quitate
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| Arequipa by night |
yesterday we had a barbecue at our friend´s house here in Arequipa. I haven’t eaten so much for 2 months We started with bakas (cows) with corn beans salads and wine but then our host brought 2 bottles of Pisco so there was no other way and we had to drink it all.
Pisco is an alcochol from grapes. it is about 40%. they mixed it with sprite and lemons but the best is something called pisco sour i´m not really sure what is inside but it is good
after grill and pisco we went watch some concert that I have almost sleep it through and then we moved to some club. we finished at 5 o´clock
enjoy
hey, 13th-15th we spent in Sangayo that is 1km beneath Cabanacota - a small village 1hour by car from Chivay.
I dont have much time now so watch this out
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| Colca Cabanacota |
It was founded in 1579 by Spanish as a close convent for a women mostly from rich families. Each nun lived in separate cell and because none of them could return again to their houses, convent quickly grew to city inside the Arequipa city.
Santa Catalina was build with white volcanic stone that needed to be painted to reduce sun reflects. Whole convent and cells was constructed with thick, high walls protecting them from earth quakes, tremors and surrounding city.
Although since 1970 it is opened to the public (for 30 S/.), Santa Catalina preserves its original nature.
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| santa catalina |
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| Puno Titihaha |
I will write about the lake and our trip later on. saying truth there is little to say, titcaca is very expensive and nothing special.
ok they have found my luggages and they are now in Arequipa, but:
- lgs are here for 3 days now - lol - and nobody ve phoned to me since that time.
- if we were nt sleeping in the same hostel, i would never know about that lgs are in ARQ.
- today is the day of the Pope, so everything is closed and they can still send lgs back to poland
tomorrow im going to titicaca lake something like 5 in the morning, so probably i will be able to put fresh pair of socks after the trip
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| Around Arequipa |
We have booked few rooms in Reyna Hostels (0051 54 2865 78). Rooms are small and sometimes without electricity but are quite cheap - double room is like 10 S/. and single 15 S/. Fortunately there is hot water in bathrooms:).
The hostel have one big advantage it is close to Plaza de Armas and just next to Santa Catalina convent.
Arequipa means something like “we came here and will stay here“. As you can see from my pictures city is surrounded by 3 volcanos - Pichu pichu and 2 more:)….
blee i don’t have time now…
Peru Lima Arequipa
My trip to Lima has started with thunder storm in Frankfurt. They shut it down so first two hours I’ve spent at some smaller airport close to polish border and another three in Frankfurt. The airport was paralysed, no-one knew where I should go and when we would lift off.
Anyway after three or four hours I was seated next to some man in big Airbus. We landed in Caracas at one o’clock local time. They have told us we will have a plane to Lima in next hour or two.
After filling some stupid sheets of paper I got to luggage hall. I can’t find mine. OK nothing will surprise me now. I wonder how unlucky I am :), it is my first trip outside Europe and they lost my stuff. I can’t give any address in Lima because I don’t know where I’m going. I try to leave but first I need to press some button that checks if my fingers are not wet. Great, what next? Nothing happens and I am leaving.
I am following other people. Nobody is waiting for me. Sure I have five or six hours delay so I don’t even count on that. I should have some information about my hostel on email. Almost every taxi driver is trying to give me some advice or simply a lift to the city for the best price.
Finally I am finding my internet place, I got number to hostel and its address I was looking for. I don’t have any Peruvian money (the best price I can get is one dollar for about 3,2 Soles). I am trying to explain to the guy in hostel who I am and where. He will send taxi for me. I’ve heard so many stories about how dangerous taking taxi from airport can be, so maybe he knows what he’s doing. I should wait something like 20 minutes, after 40 I am calling again. I was waiting on the different part of the airport.
Taxi costed me 40 S/. I am not complaining, it is about 3 o’clock, I don’t have my luggage. I don’t give a damn.
In the morning I meeting the rest of the group. Three girls from Chicago and mr. Andrzej :). We need to get back to the airport. We are flying to Arequipa. It will take us like 2hours, but costs like 60-80$. Buses are cheaper (about 12$) but journey takes more or less 10hours.
It is winter now and Lima is totally covered by clouds - no me gusta!
We will call to Lufthansa or whoever from Arequipa.
just a small pig to eat:D, hehe
im going on Thursday something like 5 o’clock. ble i hope this time i will be on time hehe. i hate big airports….
i have bought isec card for students, it has better insurance than other polish companies and for one year.
yesterday i handed my thesis in, so now im student in 20% and master in 80% sad..
ok this is my plan of the journey. as you can see it is about 6000km. i hope it is not to long for me and for my bank account!
im flying from Katowice(Poland) - Frankfurt(Germany) - Caracas(Venezuela) - Lima(Peru) . Next i am going to Arequipa on the south of Peru, and then to Chivay where i will spend one month (teaching english).
well this the backbone of my trip im still reading blogs and websites on Internet so maybe i will change the route. after one month i’m going to Boliwia and then Chile. Then back to Peru and if i have some time to spend i will go on the north of the country to see the sea and sunny beaches
today is 5th of june 2007.
so far
- i ve bought return ticket to lima
- i ve created a new account to make life simple
what next.. hym.. let’s see..
i need
- to take few vaccine - i hate needles
- to buy cheques
- to buy new sandals
- to pack myself , blee
Siedzą lenie na tapczanie
Wtorek, środa, czwartek, piątek,
Wszędzie ale nie w Gujanie,
Bo Gujana to wyjątek.
Tam w dorzeczu Amazonki
Zamiast na tapczanie siedzieć,
Tam leniwiec całe dzionki,
Woli bujać się na drzewie.
Choć papugi z dżungli całej
Głośno krzyczą mu nad uchem
On na swojej palmie dalej
Śpi do góry brzuchem.
Choćby nie wiem jak go prosić:
“Zrób coś wreszcie! Zejdź na ziemię !”
On i tak ma wszystko w nosie
I nie w głowie mu schodzenie.
Zwykłe lenie tapczanowe
Już zazdrośnie myślą skrycie:
“W Ameryce Południowej
To dopiero leń ma życie !
My nie chcemy na tapczanie
Nic nie robić całe dzionki,
My wolimy też bujanie
Nad brzegami Amazonki !”
Wszystkie lenie krzyczą: “Jadę !”
“Też będziemy żyć w zieleni !”
I znów się na tapczan kładą.
Bo podróże - nie dla leni.
